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Seeing Chhabimura on Boat – A unique experience with Nature
Dr. Sanjay Kumar Panda, IAS, Chief Secretary
Seeing Chhabimura on Boat – A unique experience with Nature
PHOTO : Dr. Sanjay Kumar Panda, IAS, Chief Secretary

The Northeastern part of our country represents an ocean of natural beauty which is yet to be explored. One of the ‘seven sisters’, Tripura, lying in the southwest corner of the Northeast, has its own share of natural beauty and greenery, spotted with monuments of historical importance. While Unakoti of Kailasahar is relatively well-known, the rock carvings on the bank of river Gomati at Chhabimura in Amarpur Sub-division of Gomati District represents another exclusive beauty lying virtually untapped. It offers a rare combination of nature and history. The river Gomati originating from the hydel project at ‘Tirthamukh’ (mouth of pilgrimage) takes its serpentine course along the Amarpur, Udaipur and Sonamura Sub-divisions, before entering Bangladesh as a tributary to the Padma River.

 The rock carvings of Chhabimura (mountain of pictures) also known as Devatamura (mountain peak of Gods) are located in the northeastern corner of Amarpur Sub-division of Gomati District. There are several panels of images carved on the steep rocky wall of the hill along the river bed of Gomati. It provides rare combination of history, heritage, culture and nature.

            The rock carvings on the vertical rocks are made of light yellow colour coarse-grained sandstone at a height of about 250 meters. There are altogether four panels of rock-cut sculptures on the steep rocky walls facing the river Gomati. The main panel, measuring 9m 80cm x 5m 80cm, depicts Panchadevata (N23°33.143’ E91°36.716’). It is carved in high relief facing the river Gomati consisting of images of Siva, Vishnu, Kartikeya, Ganesha and Sakti Devi with their proper ayudhas and bahans in accordance with the Hindu iconography. On the downstream western side of the panel, there is another smaller panel, measuring about 20m x 9m 80cm, which shows the procession of a queen on a palanquin, followed by a group of persons. This panel consists of 37 images of male and female persons with their leader. The devotees with their religious teacher are engaged in dance and music holding the musical instruments in their hands in different postures. Lower part of the panel depicts an equestrian on his horse.

At a distance of about 500 meters on the western side of the main panel downstream, there is another panel (N23°32.086’ E91°35.115’) of Brishabahana Siva, measuring 2m 40cm x 2m 40cm. Siva is seen holding Domuru in his right hand and Singa in the left hand. The Bull is looking upwards and is in the posture of motion. Next is a colossal figure of ten-armed Mahisasur-mardini, measuring 12m 88cm x 7m, which is carved on a rocky wall facing the Gomati River at a considerable distance down the river valley from the panel of Siva. Her right leg is firmly placed on the body of the buffalo-demon and the left one rests on the back of the lion.

As per available historical records, these rock carvings is stated to be Chakrakma engravings on the stones of the hill Devatamura which came into being during the reign of King Chichingfa’s grandfather. A cursory view of these ancient engravings embossed on the sedimentary rocks seems to suggest the elemental ritual worshipping associated with Tantra, not usually seen at either Unakoti or Pilak. These rock engravings can patently be classed with what is known as ‘rock panel’. On the opposite side of Radhu Khamar, on the right side of the river Gomati’s downward course, was an embossment of Brahma-Vishnu-Maheswara propped up by the mythical snake Vasuki with its thousand heads spread out in terrible beauty. This engraving is arranged in three layers, and as such has for sure no such parallel in the eastern India. If one proceeds further towards the western side, numerous engravings heave into view, the ones like Terracotta engravings and those seen in Odisha and some other parts in India.

A half-an-hour onward boat journey along the river reveals a weird bend in its course. On the left side of the bend is a cave (N23°31.702’ E91°36.480’) unvisited by humans and it is said that it had the treasuries of King Chichingfa. Jamatia lore has it that King Chichingfa stashed all his wealth in this cave in large wooden chests, kept vigil by a gigantic python. According to another source, it was actually a cobra which scared away the Jamatias, who fled the place, make it forlorn. But Hada (a religious society of the Jamatias) Akra, Nabakishore Jamatia, brushed aside the plausibility of such narratives. To the west of this area, he opined, was Burtiari which was basically the kingdom of King Chichingfa. It was to save themselves from a severe drought that the Jamatias left the place in legion.

            Chhabimura is actually reputed for the Devi Chakrakma. A huge idol of Devi Chakrakma is carved over 20 feet high if one proceeds more to the left side of the river. The hair of the Devi is replaced by many snakes and erecting their heads around her head and another idol seen below this colossal engraving is that of Rudra Bahirabhi and not a demon. The idol having ten hands like Devi Durga stands tall in an awe-inspiring grandeur.

            The main approach to Chhabimura is by road from the Udaipur to Amarpur State highway (about 10 km) covering a distance of about 10 km. The Tourism Department is developing public facilities on the river bank on the opposite side near the main rock carving.

            A boat journey on the Gomati River from Amarpur, downstream up to Maharani, would provide an enchanting opportunity to the tourists to see these magnificent rock carvings. Apart from seeing the rock carvings, the tourists can enjoy the exquisites of natural beauty of the river and forest. Trees of different colours with flowers added to beauty of the forest. Besides, there are large number of birds and flora and fauna typical to the region which would be feast for the eyes of the tourists. Tourists may go up to Amarpur by road and undertake boat journey on the Gomati River downstream up to Maharani. This will take about one hour by powerboat or two hours by country boat. As the tourists move by boat, the vehicle hired by them may drive back and get stationed at Maharani, to be taken on  alighting from the boat.

            This river cruise will provide the tourists a rare opportunity of boat journey and seeing the places of historical and heritage importance. At the same time it would generate employment opportunity for the local youth. Interested youths and Self-Help Group (SHG)s may be assisted for procuring country boat/motorboat and develop it for use by tourists on similar lines as “Sikara” in Dal Lake and Houseboat in the back waters of Alleppy District in Kerala. Serving of tea, snacks, lunch, safe drinking water, etc. may be arranged on the boat as per requirement of the tourists. Support from the Ministry of Tourism along with loan from bank/Finance Development Corporation may be provided to the interested youth/SHG for the purpose. Rate for hiring of boat and other facilities may be standardized and regulated for convenience of the tourists. However due attention is required to be given to safety and condition of the boats with floating devices, trained swimmers, communication facilities, etc. should be ensured for each boat. System of issuing licence for the boat may be introduced for ensuring this.

 


Dr. Sanjay Kumar Panda is An officer of the Indian Administrative Service, presently working as the Chief Secretary, Tripura. Views expressed are personal.

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